I’ve done Colorado’s Four Pass Loop in Maroon Bells twice. And it was great. But, in my opinion, this two-pass loop is one of Colorado’s best backpacking treks.
The Pawnee-Buchanan Pass Loop, aka, The Double-Bypass Loop is a 25 – 26 mile trek with elevations ranging from 8,790 ft to 12,541ft (give or take). This does not include side treks to additional peaks or lakes. The trip we completed this last year included a side trek to the infamous Crater Lake.
The loop is located in Indian Peaks Wilderness about an hour west outside of Boulder, CO. Permits are required and can be hard to get, but 100% worth the effort. With five people in five separate tents, finding a place to camp in our designated zone was easy the first night and more difficult the second night – simply because of WHERE in the zone we decided to camp. Also, there are Rangers out checking permits, so I don’t recommend trying to backpack without a permit.
Originally home to the Ute, Arapaho, and Cheyenne people, the land was taken over by pioneers and mining impacted the land. The area has been protected since 1978 with the prominent peaks being named after western native tribes.
Our Route
Day 1
On day 1, we arrived early to the free, first-come, first-serve parking area for Brainard Lake Recreation Area. It’s just outside the gate of the rec area. We were NOT lucky enough to score parking permits within the rec area, and thus had to hike an additional 2.2 miles on a paved road. Going in was not terrible. We showed the gate attendant our permit and were on our way. You can learn more about parking options at the end of this post.
After the 2.2 miles of hiking to get to the trailhead, our first easy ascent began. That day, we were expecting rain and possible storms so our goal was to get up and over the first pass before it came our way. However, starting around mile 5, we saw the clouds looming in the direction we were heading. We decided to take a quick potty break, grab some water and eat a snack to see what happened while we were at a lower elevation.
Low and behold, after 30 minutes, the sky was mostly clear, so we pulled our packs back on and hit the trail again.
A few miles later, we came to the jeep road intersection with camps a plenty. Continuing on, we first had to cross a large, deep road pond that looked like it could be fun to cross in a jeep. On foot, we had to count on a half submerged wooden path. Let’s just say, some of us did not have dry feet after this point. But it was a warm enough day, no one’s feet were going to freeze.
Shortly after this, our ascent up Mt. Buchanan began.
While one of the hardest parts of our hike that weekend, climbing up Buchanan was one of the best days I have ever had hiking in Colorado. The wild flowers were on point, the peaks towering in majesty, and the wild life welcomed us with their musical chirps and quick footsteps through the growing vegetation.
With a total of 3.5 miles trekking up about 2,057 feet, we made it to Buchanan Pass.
We had little time to take it all in though. Almost immediately the temperature dropped and the gray clouds began moving closer. After everyone got their electrolytes in, the very quick descent began. As did the wind.
Only two feet in front of me, I could not hear a thing one of my backpacking partners was saying to me. We tightened our hoods and just kept moving.
But it took us less than ten minutes to get to the high valley below and once off the slope, the winds calmed down. As we passed by some browsing deer, we were able to delayer a bit and slow to a normal pace.
After only about .15 miles of hiking the high valley, we continued down and began looking for our first night of camp.
Day 2
We woke up, after a decent night’s sleep, to chilly temps but clear skies. On our first day, we saw only a small handful of people, but right from the get go on this day, we crossed paths with people about every mile or so. Mostly downhill for half of the day’s hike, we took our time, checking out waterfalls, and avoiding moose.
We also took a side hike to Crater Lake where we explored for far too long.
Side note: Crater Lake does have camp spots. They are usually the first permits to go. I knew this going in so had planned on this day having the shortest mileage to camp so we could add the 2+ mile hike in and out to Crater Lake in as well. It’s not to be missed, even if you cannot camp there.
After Crater Lake, we continued our hike to our night two camp. We had planned on staying a few miles before the next lake but decided to charge on to Pawnee Lake. When we arrived, we managed to smush ourselves between all the other backpackers who had gotten there a few hours before us. My recommendation is, if you can find a good spot before the lake you are far better off than trying to find a spot at the lake because there are sooooooo many people there.
Day 3
We woke up early to beat the crowds going up Pawnee Pass. After a warm breakfast and getting situated, we started up the pass. People say this pass is harder than Buchanan Pass because it’s 12,541ft peak where Buchanan is below 12,000ft. But, our fresh legs and lungs had us feeling strong and we made it up in good time, passing people along the way.
We saw some grouse on the way too!
At the top, we took a quick break, ate another snack, and made our way back down toward the beautiful Lake Isabelle. This is where our group was stopped by a ranger to show our permits. Others on trail had be stopped at different points, but we weren’t stopped until the last day.
Lake Isabelle is busy. Lots of day hikers in addition to the permitted backpackers. It’s a fairly easy hike from the Brainard Lake Recreation Area, especially if you’re looking for a fun, pretty day hike!
Once we made it back to Brainard Lake, we took advantage of the pit toilets, (which actually didn’t smell too bad) before beginning our 2.2 mile hike to our car. While the hike in didn’t seem bad, the hike out on the raod was hot and well, awful.
Since it was later in the day, there were more cars passing by and they were not going the recommended speed limit. But, if it was between doing this hike again or not and I could not get a permit again, would I do it and hike the road again? YES.
Getting Backpacking Permits
As of this writing, permits go up the first Tuesday in March of each year. The loop goes through four zones. Three of which you can sleep in. Plus, there is the Crater Lake zone which is technically outside the loop but could easily be added. Permits are $11. Permits are required June 1 to September 15.
Parking
Parking is NOT included in your backcountry permit. If you wish to get a spot in Brainard Lake Recreation you must get an extra permit. There are four trailhead lots that have overnight parking – Brainard, Long Lake, Mitchell and Niwot.
There are a few additional trailheads where you can park that will add some mileage including Monarch Lake, which is very popular.
We parked at the Brainard Lake Gateway Trailhead. In the summer, we did not have to pay a fee to park. You do in winter.
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